We arrived early in the morning in Arequipa after an overnight bus from Nazca. Our elevation had now increased from 520m (1706 ft) in Nazca to 2,335 m (7660 ft) at our destination, though we passed through much of it at sea level as we travelled along the coastal highway.

The last quarter of the trip changed as we slowly rose We felt no difference but were tired after a rough night’s sleep on the bus. We dropped off our bags in the Los Tambos Hotel at 6:30 a.m. and sat in the lobby for a few hours. Eventually we decided to walk around since we couldn’t check in until 2 p.m.

Around the year 1170, a large Incan army led by Mayta Cáypac discovered a large, uninhabited valley. He decided to have his people settle here and named it “Ari-quepay” (let’s stay here). This new land was divided amongst 3,000 Inca families, who founded many districts of Arequipa such as Cayma, Tiabaya and Yanahuara. Arequipa became a strategic midpoint between the ocean and Cucso located high up in the mountains.

On August 15th 1540, the modern city of Arequipa was founded on the orders of Francisco Pizarro, becoming a stronghold for a new leadership. One year later, the king of Spain, Charles V declared Arequipa as a city.

The first time we visited the main square it was still early (around 8 a.m.) and very quiet. We walked around and also searched for a laundromat. Most stores were still closed at this point.

An hour later a protest passed by while we were inside a laundromat. The seemed upset about something as they headed towards Armas Square. We decided to head back that way to find out what the fuss was about. By the time we reached the square, there were now two groups on different sides of the square. The other one seemed much more upbeat and enthusiastic as we got closer.

One of the groups was celebrating the Peruvian hero Miguel Grau, someone who I discovered had a very interesting life. Grau was nicknamed “Gentleman of the Seas” for his kind and chivalrous treatment of defeated enemies and is considered a hero by both Peruvians and Chileans. Grau is also a key figure for the Peruvian navy, and one of the most famous naval officers from the Americas.

Known by its nickname of Ciudad Blanca (White City), Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru, with over 1,300,000 inhabitants. The historical centre of Arequipa is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Much of this area was built using the white and pink volcanic sillar rock, using Spanish design and Peruvian labour.

Earthquakes are quite common in the region. Over the past year there have been 65 earthquakes measuring 1.5 or above on the richter scale.

On another day we made our way to the Monastery of Santa Catalina de Siena. One of Arequipa’s most recognizable sites, it is a sprawling monastery (nunnery) located in the heart of the city.

Upon entry we paid the 45 soles (US$15) each and went inside. The huge complex invites random exploration rather than following a set path, so we just wandered around the monastery for the afternoon.

There was a variety of styles among the structures, and the colours ranged from none at all to bright reds and blues elsewhere.

The Monastery of Santa Catalina was an impressive place even though it felt like a maze at times. Although there was a lot of similarity in many of the rooms, there was enough to keep us occupied for the two hours we spent there. From there we walked onward to Alpaca World.

Alpacas are considered one of the most recognizable animals from Peru, and in Arequipa there’s a museum dedicated to this animal. Located a short distance from the historical centre, the museum gives the history of alpacas in Peru, along with lots of colourful examples of textiles made from them.

The walk from Alpaca World over to the Yanahuara Scenic Overlook was a long one, and involved crossing the river, walking north parallel to the river and then heading west up steep hills to the viewpoint overlooking much of the city. It took us about an hour to get there.

Yanahuara is an district with a nice view of the city and the Misti Volcano. There’s a main plaza with various food stalls around along with the scenic overlook.

After a long day of walking we went to a local restaurant located across the street from the Monastery of Santa Catalina was 13 Monjas (13 Nuns). It has local beers and really delicious fusion food and seemed to be busy all the time. With no regular tables available we took a small spot near the bar and had a great time.

We spent three nights in Arequipa and really enjoyed the atmosphere there. Depending on how many day trips you take, 3 or 4 days should be enough for visitors. We did one day-trip (in the next blog) and could have done at least one more. We had perfect weather in July and the city seemed very welcoming for visitors. It’s a city we wouldn’t hesitate to visit again if we have the chance.

Notes:

-One downside with the overnight Peruhop bus to Arequipa from Nazca was missing out on a really nice view along the way. This was because much of the journey hugged the coastline and had a view of the ocean. With her window seat Kim could just barely make out the ocean in the dark. She saw endless pristine beaches and small beach towns. Unfortunately, even with the domestic companies daytime buses were limited and it didn’t work with our schedule. If you can, doing a daytime trip (with seats on the right hand side of the bus) would add a really nice view along the way.

-despite the increase in elevation, we were still fine and felt no effects. Those effects would set in at our next destination: Puno

-overall we were happy with the Los Tambos hotel. Our room was overlooking a courtyard and the morning breakfast (choice of options) was good. The best thing about the hotel was the location. It was right on the walking street close to the square, and we were able to do a lot of walking in central Arequipa during our stay there